Arizona Outback Adventures Blog

A Fresh Breath of Grand Canyon

 

Grand Canyon Grand Traverse - Part 3

 

Recently I had the chance to lead a group of guests on a "Grand Traverse" of the Grand Canyon hiking from the North Rim to the Colorado River and Phantom Ranch and on to the South Rim.  Here is what I confirmed/learned from my time on the trail - in three parts.

PART 3

DAY TWO: Let it be known, I’m an expert in perfect days. Sample itinerary: pancakes and coffee for breakfast; a fabulous morning hike climbing to an outstanding view of the Colorado River; an afternoon spent basking below the cottonwood trees by Bright Angel Creek and Boat Beach, admiring the tan, well-sculpted, rippling shoulder muscles of river guides taking guests down the Colorado; two more Ranger Talks, including Canyon Jeopardy (our well-informed guests pretty much cleaned out the prize bag. Most winners selected a sticker that says “Going down is optional. Going up is mandatory”). We share another relaxed meal (tonight’s menu: steak, cornbread, and veggie chili for the non-carnivores…epicurean…) before bedtime and butterflies about the inevitable day before us.

A note on chocolate cake: hiking in Grand Canyon is not the time to go on a diet. Fatty, salty food is more than acceptable. You need as much fuel as your body requires to get out of here so don’t be afraid to slip that bite of goodness off your fork into your mouth, confident that the sugars will be broken down and used strategically throughout the hike out tomorrow. And you know you want more of those sweet dreams you had last night…

DAY THREE: Early the next morning, organized backpacks and filled-up water bottles sit outside the Canteen in the dark. We chow lightly, say goodbye to fellow hikers we’ve met the last couple of days, and hit the trail. The sky pales to glorious sunshine as the turbid Colorado flows at a rapid 18,000 cubic feet per second below the Silver Bridge we walk over to get from the northside of the canyon to the south.

Bright Angel Trail is 9-miles from river to rim but there are about 5,000 feet to go up to get out of this lionized hole in the ground. A shared group mentality of Carpe Diem and an overall sensation of appreciation that we are hiking in Grand Canyon follows us up the trail keeping time with our beating hearts and slightly elevated breathing. What a blessing to have this opportunity, even if our only option is crossing this grandest of canyons on two gangly legs! Not a step is wasted or moment lost as guests capture photographs of the ever-changing light on the canyon walls. Even bagels and summer sausage are savored at Indian Gardens, our half-way point, before we begin the character-building trek up through Jacob’s Ladder and other welcoming sections of Bright Angel Trail, like Heartbreak Hill.

But the only heartbreak comes when the dirt meets the pavement at the top of the trail.

“That was harder than giving birth,” says Michelle, a 47-year old hiker from Georgia.

Sure, we’re relieved to sit and bask in the accomplishment of the journey, indulging in cold beer and nachos. If only there was chocolate cake.

Grand Canyon Grand Traverse - Part 2

 

Recently I had the chance to lead a group of guests on a "Grand Traverse" of the Grand Canyon hiking from the North Rim to the Colorado River and Phantom Ranch and on to the South Rim.  Here is what I confirmed/learned from my time on the trail - in three parts.

PART 2

DAY ONE: Thirteen guests adjust trekking poles, backpack straps, shoelaces, and altimeters as the early morning mist lifts from the spruce trees of North Kaibab Trailhead. Today’s dusty, dynamic decline cuts through eight different layers of sedimentary rocks and five of the seven life zones of North America. Each step down is about 100,000 years deeper into geologic history (trail’s end finds us engulfed in ramparts of heavy metamorphic rock called Vishnu Schist dated to be half the age of the planet!). Gauges for the drastic changes along the trail include a rise in temperature, plant life hugging the eroding slopes of the canyon walls and the guest with the most accurate GPS device. Twenty minutes of walking, for instance, takes us from aspen trees to vanilla-scented ponderosa pines, and three hours walk from those misty spruce trees at the rim finds us grazing by prickly pear cactus along Bright Angel Creek.

The first thing you should decide before choosing the rim to rim traverse is “Do I like rocks?” Easy question. Of course you like rocks. Rocks are the essence of solid ground. Mountains are rock. You build your house on rock. Salt is a rock; you like salt. The Rolling Stones immortalized rock (‘n roll) for cryin’ outloud. Grand Canyon is the archetypal library of rocks, an exposed chronicle of compressed sand dunes, shallow seas and other mysterious stories set in stone history. The farther down the trail, the higher the walls rise, making it feel like you’re being swallowed by rock. It’s pretty; it’s amazing; it’s humbling; and it’s completely overwhelming.

It’s lunchtime. Nearly eight miles into our hike, we veer about a half-mile off trail for Ribbon Falls, a must-do even with the additional steps required to get here. The thin veil of water pouring from a hundred feet above cools our feet, and one by one, smiles return to weary faces. Refreshed by the surprising effects of water in a desert oasis, we hit the trail again, six miles and five footbridges to go to Phantom Ranch, our home for the next two nights.

The rustic camp of Phantom Ranch is nestled on the banks of the Colorado River at its’ confluence with icy Bright Angel Creek. These narrow acres were used first by Native Americans nearly 4,000 years ago for farming. About a century ago, white men showed up to trap beavers, mine for copper, and name things. David Rust undertook the happy task of tour guide for those wishing to descend into the depths of the canyon. Thanks to Rust’s perseverance in establishing a cable car system stretching over the mighty river, tourists could now traverse the river more safely than via the former canvas canoes. Rust’s Camp soon became Roosevelt’s Camp until architectural genius Mary Colter came along, made some brilliant exterior design changes and added the mystique and allure to the canyon haven by dubbing it Phantom Ranch. It wasn’t long before hiking from rim to river and back again in Grand Canyon became a coveted checkbox on any adventure travelers’ list.

Tired feet make their way to dormitories to ease out of sweaty socks and boots into something more comfortable. Some crash on their chosen bunk for a deserved nap, some take hot showers, and some shuffle to one of the engaging Ranger Talks featured at the Ranch twice a day. Like it can hear the rumble of growling stomach’s echoing through camp, the dinner bell rings hungry hikers to a family-style meal at the Canteen. A wave of summer camp nostalgia settles in over the conversations as musings of trail sightings and traveling tales assail the wooden beams of the cozy dining hall. No wireless. No cell phone reception. And the only traffic is the mule train bringing food and supplies to and from the rim a mile above us and world’s away.

After a hearty ladle of Hiker’s Stew, cue chocolate cake, dark as the night falling over the canyon floor outside the lit windows. Our eyelids threaten closure each passing minute and one by one, we succomb to sleepy time and dreams of a chocolate-cake canyon and unending labyrinth of rock wall after rock wall after rock wall…

Grand Canyon Grand Traverse

 

Recently I had the chance to lead a group of guests on a "Grand Traverse" of the Grand Canyon hiking from the North Rim to the Colorado River and Phantom Ranch and on to the South Rim.  Here is what I confirmed/learned from my time on the trail - in three parts.

PART 1

To thoroughly enjoy a rim to rim hike, you should start walking now. Take the stairs instead of the elevator, join a weekend hiking club or visit the highest point in your state (yes, Floridians, 345-foot tall Britton Hill counts as a climb. Unfortunately, based on height alone, you could stack about 15 Florida’s on top of each other like pancakes and still not fill up the chasm of the canyon). By doing so, your grand traverse of Grand Canyon will simply be no more than a walk in the park. A piece of cake. Chocolate cake, that is…

Grand Canyon National Park attracts over 5-million visitors a year. Most know about the ice cream available at the South Rim Village. But there’s a sacred treat, a simple decadence to be had a mile below the rim. This desert dessert is set apart for the elite few who pass through Phantom Ranch just beyond the banks of the Colorado River. Getting there? Get your boots on.

GETTING THERE: The North Rim Lodge sits about 8,200 feet above sea level right on the edge of the canyon at the end of a remote road that’s open only six months a year. The drive is long no matter where your starting location is so expect to arrive just in time for sunset, a classic Grand Canyon debut. Kick back in a rocking chair on the open deck of the lodge as the remains of the day brush gold against the wide band of Coconino Sandstone on the opposite wall of the South Rim 18-miles away as the crow flies. The rest of the canyon yawns out of sight to the Colorado River a mile below us. It’s one of those times you wish you could fly as the crow does: a mere 18-miles straight over the abyss would be covered in a few wobbly minutes of flight. It’ll take our gangly two legs three days to cross.

TO BE CONTINUED…

Guided Mountain Bike Tours - One Guest's Experience

 

Tom was a recent guest on a full-day guided mountain bike tour and wrote to let us know about his experience with the Sonoran Desert, the weather, and Alex his guide.  His story reminds uswhy we love sharing this great area with our visitors.  Tom's story:

"hello.....hello,

I've been visiting my folks in Sun City, AZ and it's just one of the many quadrants that make up Phoenix. It's a big f...ing city, surrounded by a variety of mountains and the Sonoran Desert! Knowing that, it made a great deal of sense for me to reach out to a bike shop to find out how best to access the goods, as I stopped traveling with a bike ages ago. Gary and George were here a couple of weeks ago and gave me the name of a shop in Carefree, but unfortunately they didn't rent bikes. Fortunately, though, the bike shop did introduce me to Arizona Outdoor Adventures (AOA).

I've driven through the Sonoran Desert many times, but had yet to ride a mountain bike through a small part of it. It was time, and AOA was the vehicle to make it happen. I spoke with them from Vancouver on several occasions and they proved themselves to be cordial, accommodating, flexible and responsive. I opted for a full day ride with lunch and was picked up by my guide, Alex. I was told in advance that Alex was a good fit and I can't disagree. A 41 year old landscape architect, an accomplished tri-athlete and an all around good guy who owns property at Canmore, outside of Calgary, we enjoyed chatting away for the hour long drive to McDowell Mountain Park, completely discounting the cool rainy weather and looking forward to a great ride and workout. Alex was completely professional and very much at ease. 

My rental bike was exceptionally maintained and it really felt like home, except for the fact that I was surrounded by a seemingly vast wasteland that in fact held the secret to the essence of life. This was an ecosystem of sparse necessity and its ability to sustain such brutal conditions of heat and dryness continue to impress and draw me in. I will always be tied to desert areas like those found in Arizona, Cali and, of course, Utah. These are places to see in the early spring and the smell of citrus is strong.

Peacefulness is not found any easier than zipping through the desert in awe and amazement, soaking in the harshness as a welcomed guest.

We began our first loop of the day in a light rain that varied throughout the 15 miles. I was glad that I had brought my rain jacket and it was cool enough that it didn't come off until the photo opportunity (attached). Alex led us onto the multi-purpose trail and because of the weather, we were alone and it was even more spectacular because of the solitude. I must say that my legs were unprepared for the cool or the rain, but a half hour later they started to feel better. Although the Pemberton Trail was not challenging, it was a wonderful adventure and an educational opportunity.

Alex was able to identify all of the plant material that I have wondered about and give me some information about each. You just don't get that connection otherwise. A few facts......the Saguaro Cactus, the big daddy of all cactus, have a lifespan of app. 200 years and don't start growing arms until the age of 75 years. They are one tough hombre and not to be counted on for survival if lost and disoriented. In the photo, you'll see a tall spindly plant and that one is known as an Ocotillo. Back in the day, it was commonly used as a "living fence" to contain livestock or define other defensible space. The small yellowish cactus in the photo is referred to as a jumping Cholla and they are also plentiful in the Sonoran Desert. What is clear with regards to all species on the desert floor is this: Don't ride over them, don't brush up against them and co-existence can be pleasant.

Much like VVV riders pointing out road deficiencies on the road, Alex would point out the wayward branch on the trail and you do want to heed the advice. The barrel cactus is another interesting character that can be confused with a baby Saguaro, but differs in its constant barrel like circumference, unlike the Saguaro that has a taper at its base. The interesting thing about the barrel is that it will typically point to the south, thus enabling some basic orienteering. Many of the plants have been used by the Indians for teas and tinctures, and the Jojoba bush is valuable for its odorless waxy oil derived from its seeds and is famous for its use in cosmetics and lotions. You look at this scraggly plant and would never have guessed its value. There are many varieties of Prickly Pear cactus and some of the more common can be found in grocery stores for cooking. They are considered a delicacy, but I've tried them in Mexico and will pass at the next opportunity! In addition to cactus and bushes, Alex also pointed out a couple of trees that were noteworthy and typical to the Sonoran desert. The Palo Verde is abundant and has adapted well to the harshness of the desert.

With the tiniest leaves imaginable, it acts as a nurse plant to the baby Saguaro and provides comfort and shelter and manages to survive due to its ability to draw moisture into its core through its trunk, thus requiring less water. The grand-daddy of all Sonoran trees is the Ironwood, which can live up to 800 years. Needless to say, I would not have gained such first hand knowledge of the desert without Alex's guidance.

We finished the Pemberton loop in the rain and my hands were cold. 

Alex was bitten by a bee the day before and his eye was swollen. A short snack ensued and we opted for a short loop called Scenic for the second ride of the day and just prior to our lunch. This trail was a bit more climbing and some loose rock descents, but offered a great view from the ridge line.

Alex pointed out the area where fire had ravaged some 15 years earlier and it was stunning to see how the harsh ecosystem had been able to bounce back.

He also pointed out the agricultural lands of the Pima Indians and let me know that most of their crops of citrus and pecans were contracted to China.

I like the thought that they are able to make money in ways other than casinos.....The weather was declining further and I could tell by Alex's body language (tri-geeks eat their dead!), that we were continuing the rides in hopes of beating the weather. We stopped back at the truck for lunch and it was a great wrap provided by a local bakery, together with a bag of chips and a homemade cookie. Alex then loaded up the truck and headed for the other parking area and the trailhead for the Competition Tracks. This was to be the afternoon ride and consisted of three separate loops that can be combined in different configurations for all types of races and enduros. 

Unfortunately, the rain was getting heavier and the temperature continued to hover in the mid-fifties (13C), and I pulled the plug. I was happy to have had my visualization realized, and decided that it was better to get home to a hot shower and allow my imagination time to build for the next adventure.

I'll smile fondly when I remember the beautiful soft textures and subtle colors of the day.  Thank you Alex and thank you AOA. I'll be back again someday and won't hesitate to reach out once again for the next adventure.  Until then, I'll look forward to returning the favor in Vancouver or possibly hook up with you at Canmore.

All the best."

Winter Bliss in the Grand Canyon National Park

 

Despite the fact that it was the first week of January in normally warm and sunny Arizona, a group of five brave AOA guides stood atop the south rim of the Grand Canyon surrounded by the cloudiness of their breath in the crisp morning air. Their destination? Phantom Ranch and two nights at the bottom of one of the seven natural wonders of the world.
With YakTrax ™ on their feet and smiles shining on their faces, the group set out to explore and scout out one of AOA’s newest and most exciting multi-day trip destinations. While the weather had been wickedly cold just the week before, on this day it really wasn’t so bad. The first couple miles of the South Rim’s South Kaibab trail were covered with fairly deep, but somewhat packed snow. The grandeur of the Canyon in the chilly summer morning displaced any discomfort!
Upon arrival at the bottom several hours later, the group wound their way through the Canyon floor to Phantom Ranch where warm bunks and a scrumptious dinner of chili, cornbread and chocolate cake awaited them. A great night’s rest was ensured.
On day two, the guides set out to explore several moderately challenging and beautiful hikes. One of these meandered its way up the trail toward the North Rim, where just off to the west in a small canyon was nestled the pristine Ribbon Falls.  Crystal clear streams of icy water plummeted over rocks covered in a rich green moss. It was the perfect place to picnic on delicious bag lunches offered by the ranch.
After yet another well-earned night of rest, the guides munched on a yummy egg and pancake breakfast before grabbing their packs to ascend the 4460 feet in elevation and almost 10 breathtaking (in more ways than one!) miles up the Bright Angel Trail.
With only slightly wearied legs, the group was thrilled to reach the top, and treated themselves to mouthwatering burgers and fries in Flagstaff on the way back down to Phoenix. All were in agreement that overnighting and exploring the bottom of the Grand Canyon brings an entirely new and unique perspective to the amazing natural world around us, and this incredible trip is  DEFINITELY not to be missed regardless of the time of the year!!

The Art of Growing Up

 

While the burgeoning Santa Fe Railroad was busy shuttling wealthy passengers to the South Rim of Grand Canyon in the early 1900’s, the imagination of a Scottish playwright was occupied scribbling character sketches of the famous youngster, Peter Pan. In 1904, the writer J.M. Barrie introduced to the public an enchanting place called Neverland created for this stubborn Lost Boy who refuses to never grow up and decides instead to take boundless adventures. What Mr. Barrie didn't know as he sat at his writing desk in Great Britain was that Neverland actually existed in the wild west of northern Arizona territory a few thousand feet deep down in the gut of a canyon.

For those of us explorers-at-heart, this is very good news. An inexhaustible playground replete with hidden caves and dinosaur fossils and tumbling waterfalls? Yes please! And if you’re up for a character-building adventure, you could set out for a 10-mile trek down a haggard, dusty trail to this dreamy oasis found along the banks of Havasu Creek. After wearing your dogs out and feeling the weight of the Southwest sun, you will never ever forget that first encounter with the effervescent waters of these mineral-rich streams. Let the eight-year-old in each of us wake up! It’s time to discover…

The creek and canyon belong to the tribe of Indians known as the Havasupai (have-uh-sue-pie) whose name comes from the color of paradise captured in the aquamarine swirls found at Mile 157 of this tributary of the mighty Colorado River. These “people of the blue-green waters” have lived in the canyon for over 800 years, calling this incomparable tract of terrain home long before Spanish explorers stumbled upon the rim’s massive plateau. The difficult history of the Havasupai is tainted with tragedies that are as far from childhood fairytales as imaginable. But they know their land is a coveted pocket of natural wonders and have managed to stay put mostly due to the attention that flows in from tourism.

Thankfully we’re allowed to share in the beauty of these fought-for acres of paradise. Down there, the canyon walls hold in a sort of reverence for the protected beauty that in essence stays the same but undergoes intense makeovers all the time. Rusty travertine builds up and breaks down and the floodgates open when storms pummel the high places reducing former marvels to fond memories. But some things stay the same. There are still the childish yelps to let out in reckless amusement when you launch off the edge of a waterfall or the gasp of wonder at the iridescent shape of a scorpion under a black light, not to mention the smile on your face as you fall asleep to the sound of the rushing creek. So man up! Wrestle age and the dire practicalities of adulthood to the ground. And appreciate one of the many simple joys of growing up: now you can go do cool things.

The Meaning and Motivation of Havasupai

 

Each year, as we start a new season I can’t help but think about Havasupai and why it is so important to us.   In the canyon life is reduced to the essentials:  staying warm, cooling off, sleeping, coffee, and health, plus eating and staying hydrated.  Inside those protective sheer canyon walls cell phones, emails, traffic jams, stress, and even our real life relationships absolutely cease to exist.   Perhaps that is the most important gift the canyon gives us:  the ability to retreat from our distractions and begin to better understand our own lives.

It is said that you can never cool your feet in the same Havasu Creek waterfall twice.  Like life it is always changing and evolving at a shockingly rapid pace.  However, it is not only the creek that changes; we are transformed by the canyon each time we visit.  For example, the most fantastic hike in the world, the trek to Beaver Falls, seems to be a metaphor for life.  Each turn brings new surprises, pleasures, tests, and obstacles to conquer.  All you can do is follow the creek and eagerly peer around the next bend.  It is one of the very few experiences in life where you are 100% living in the moment.

Facilitating this, and similar experiences, is the real service we strive to provide to our guests.  As it is for the Havasupai Tribe, Havasu Creek is the essential life blood upon which Arizona Outback Adventures was built and it continues to feed us in so many ways.  Whether our guests are on a Havasupai trip, a Half Day Mountain Bike Tour on a week-long multi-sport tour through southern Utah or backpacking through the Superstition Wilderness,  I am consistently impressed by the number who write to tell us about the life changing or simply decompressing experience they achieved.  Our staff never tires of hearing these stories; it is what motivates us to come to work each day.  

Havasupai and Grand Canyon Guided Tours - Five Reasons to Choose AOA

 

On every guided tour our mission is the same - To exceed your expectations in these 5 KEY AREAS.

1. Safety:

Our guest's safety is our foremost priority in the Grand Canyon and everywhere we conduct tours. Mountain biking and hiking are activities in which the guest has control of his or her own bike and/or footing. Therefore, we can never absolutely guarantee your safety. However, all of our lead guides have Wilderness First Responder and many have other advanced certifications such as Swift Water Rescue, and National Outdoor Leadership degrees.And, all guides are First Aid and CPR certified and equipped with extensive first aid kits, additional water, and a cell phone or two-way radio. 

2. Comfortable Accommodations:

We provide amenities and equipment in all our camps (whether it’s the Grand Canyon, Havasupai or Bryce Canyon) to elevate your comfort level in the backcountry. The reason we don't let you bring your own camping gear is that we know from experience that you will be uncomfortable sleeping. We always provide everything you need, from spacious tents with luxuriously thick sleeping mattresses to private wash/shower stations. Also, personal hygiene can be challenging for inexperienced backcountry travelers. Our guides will take care to provide the tips and tools to keep you clean and comfortable.

3. Delicious Meals with Dietary Flexibility:

Nothing is better than a cold drink and a wonderful meal after a long day on the trail. Our guides have years of experience cooking for groups and know how to prepare and present outstanding back country culinary creations. Expect hearty, healthy meals with fresh vegetables, fruits, and proteins each day. Snacks are available at all times. Should you have any special dietary needs or restrictions, they can be easily accommodated, hassle-free!



4. Exceptional Adventure Tour Guides:

Our guides are teamed to maximize their individual expertise ensuring your every need is satisfied. Professional, knowledgeable, sensitive, humorous, great leader, skilled teacher - we could write a long list of descriptive words and phrases. However, if you came to our office, our bulging files of "thank you" letters, would tell a better story.

5. Unique Outdoor Educational Experience:

Learning the natural and cultural history of these magnificent landscapes adds tremendously to your experience. Veteran adventure travelers know that a fulfilling and memorable vacation goes far beyond gorgeous vistas. We focus on teaching you the flora, fauna, geology and history of the unique environments encountered on all of our tours.